i’ve been wanting to make a pie lately, perhaps in the spirit of thanksgiving.  but i’ve been craving the savory variety and wanting them small enough to be hand-held.  i had two large leeks i knew i wanted to use and my instinct was to mix them with some type of strongly flavored cheese – which ended up being kashkaval, a hard sheep’s milk cheese i got at the armenian market near my house – but you could easily substitute cheddar.

when meditating on what the final ingredient should be, the common denominator between sauteed leeks, cheddar-like cheese and flaky buttery pie crust seems to be apple, which just happen to be another seasonal favorite.  these ingredients come together into the most delightful blend of savory and sweet, with a crispy crust, soft buttery filling and just a hint of melty cheese.  you can use this same recipe to make a full-sized pie, but these miniature versions are great for individual servings, not to mention adorable.  they are the perfect party appetizers (especially for a tea party) but they are also a convenient snack to pack for work or school.

begin with the crust, you can make it a day ahead if you have plastic wrap to cover and refrigerate it.  it’s really easy to make the crust in the food processor, just add all ingredients except the water and pulse a few times until the butter has broken up into little pieces.  if you don’t have a food processor then use a pastry cutter or break up the cold butter with a large fork.

after processing, transfer the mixture to a large bowl and prepare your ice water.  use a cup that is at least 8 oz and fill with water and a few ice cubes.  i ended up using 3/4th cups of ice water (12 tablespoons) but you may use a little more or less.  add ice water into the dry mixture tablespoon by tablespoon, stirring between each one.  just as the dough comes together and sticks, press it all together into one ball and let it sit in the fridge for about 10 minutes.

meanwhile you can get started on your filling.  cut up the leeks first.  i usually remove the green portions and roots, then cut them top to bottom so i can clean out each layer and get rid of any dirt or grit – which i seem to find in most all leeks.

then slice the leeks about a 1/4th of an inch thick and heat up a pan over high heat.  melt the 2 tbsp butter, add the sliced leeks and stir until incorporated, then turn the heat down to medium.  cook the leeks like this for 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes.

you can take this time to peel and slice the apples.  i used two different kinds and sliced them very thin.

once the leeks have cooked, add in the sliced apples and cooking wine, turn the heat up to high.  cook like this for 5 more minutes, stirring every minute or so.  the wine should completely cook off so there is no liquid in the pan.

transfer the mixture to a large plate to cool down, because you don’t want to put hot filling into a pie crust, it will melt the butter before it gets in the oven.

if your cheese isn’t already shredded then take a minute to do so.

cut off half of the crust dough and roll it out on a large floured surface.  roll it out as thin as you can with a rolling pin, and let it sit in the fridge another 10 minutes or so.  i found i could fit my whole cutting board right in the fridge, but if you can’t do that you can roll it up in some wax paper or parchment paper.

preheat the oven to 350F.

if you are ready to assemble some pies you can use a small bowl or a large mug to cut out circles, or even use a cookie cutter for a custom shape.  pile some filling on one side, topping with a little bit of shredded cheese (don’t overfill!) and lay the another piece of crust gently over.  you can seal the edges by crimping with your fingers or do as i did, press together with a fork.  prick a tiny hole in the top with a knife so the filling can vent.  if you want them to have a shiny finish then you can brush them with an egg wash.

bake for 40 minutes, in 2-3 batches.

let cool a few minute before enjoying, but they are best when warm right from the oven.  they store well for two days or so, just keep in an air-tight container outside of the fridge, and toast to re-heat.  they are great for a little snack or savory breakfast pastry.  if you serve them as an appetizer at a party you can double or triple the dough recipe and make a variety of fillings – would be great stuffed with sauteed mushroom, sun-dried tomato, ricotta cheese, roasted pumpkin/squash or garlicy greens.

yields 12 hand pies

stuffed mushrooms are such a simple thing, yet strangely enough i don’t think i have ever made them myself.  i have enjoyed other people’s versions, with spinach and garlic, brown rice or bread crumbs, stuffed with goat cheese, cheddar or gruyere.  there are so many ways they can be served it’s hard to go wrong!

i scored a glut of mushrooms from the armenian market down the street today, i think because they will be closed tomorrow for thanksgiving they had to get rid of a lot all at once.  so i got a 3 pound bag for only 99 cents.  i knew i would use some for my stuffing tomorrow, but had to come up with a few other recipes to use them up quick, and this one proved simple and fast.  they are great as an appetizer to dinner or served at a party, enjoy them for any of your upcoming holiday get-togethers.

some people don’t wash their mushrooms, but i always wash mine.  just run them under a little cold water, separate the stems from the caps, and let the caps drain facing down on a piece of paper towel.  save the stems and finely chop them.  these add a lot of flavor to the stuffing mixture.

chop the onion – you can use any color (brown, red or white) i used a white one, medium sized.  mix together the chopped onion and stems, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a touch of fresh thyme leaves.  saute with the olive oil over high heat for about 5 minutes.  the onion and mushroom should start to soften.

then add in the cooking wine (i use sherry but any kind will do) and let cook down another 3-4 minutes.  cut the heat and remove from the pan, spooning into a medium bowl to cool.  after about 5 minutes you can mix in the pesto, farmer’s cheese and broccoli.  i used mostly the florets of the broccoli, pretty finely chopped into small pieces.  and i didn’t bother steaming the broccoli since they will cook in the oven.

for pesto i’m always making my own using this basic recipe.  i sometimes replace the almonds with other nuts like hazelnuts, walnuts or pine nuts.  and i often swap out the greens for anything else available.  i’ve made it with fresh parsley, kale, spinach, chard, and of course basil.  you can make a ton ahead of time.  it freezes well and goes well with almost anything: pasta dishes, sandwiches, with eggs or used simply as a dip.

preheat the over to 375F.

mix the ingredients together and flavor with a bit more salt and pepper, taste to make sure it’s just right.

take your dried mushroom caps and stuff them with the stuffing mixture.  you can do this with a small spoon, pack it in tightly and pile it on top a bit.

spray or brush a cooking sheet with a little oil and place the mushrooms on it.  bake for 40 minutes, and in the last 10 minutes top with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese and crank the heat to 400F.  let cool for a few minutes after they come out of the oven, but enjoy soon there after since they are best still warm.

yields 16 mushrooms

once summer has officially wound down and the fall produce begins to roll into the farmers’ market, i fondly anticipate the sunchoke’s return.  also known as a jerusalem artichoke, sunroot, or my favorite name – earth apple – this root veggie belongs to the sunflower family.  the roots grow all summer long while the flowers flourish up top, making roots ready for digging up in the fall.

they are most similar in taste and texture to a potato, but they are a little sweeter and much more earthy tasting.  they are high in inulin, a naturally occurring sugar substitute, which the body does not break down, so the sunchoke is lower in carbs and glycemic index.  i love roasting them in the oven but they can take quite a while, so i now boil them quickly first to make them cook a lot quicker.

when the crunchy parmesan finishes off these funny-shaped fries, they become a real treat.  the pungent bite of the chimichurri sauce, with lots of cilantro, lemon, and garlic compliments it perfectly.  whip up this recipe at your next autumn get together, for the few months these beauties are in season.

parmesan sunchoke fries
about 1 lb sunchokes (finger-like in shape and roughly the same size)
1 quart salted water
1 tbsp olive oil
salt & pepper
finely shredded parmesan cheese

chimichurri sauce
1 big bunch of cilantro (1/4th lb with stems)
1/2 c olive oil
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
2 cloves crushed garlic
1 large lemon – juiced and seeds removed

make the sauce ahead of time so it’s ready for when the fries come out of the oven.  you can make it up to 2 days ahead and store in an air-tight container in the fridge.  this recipe makes a lot more than you’ll need for these fries so you can use it in a ton of other recipes.  great with salads, in tacos, on burgers, as a marinade especially for chicken, or as a dip for anything else, like pita chips or veggies.

just wash your cilantro and remove most of the stems, combine in a food processor with all the other ingredients and blend for 10-15 seconds or until no large chunks remain.

for the fries, start by bringing the salted water to a boil over high in a medium-sized pot.  wash the sunchokes well, but i don’t bother scrubbing or peeling them even though they look pretty earthy.

slice all the pieces lengthwise into quarters, roughly the same sizes but they won’t be perfectly uniform.  when the water is boiling carefully drop the sunchoke pieces in and once it comes back to a full boil let it simmer on high for 5 minutes.

preheat the oven to 375F

when time is up shut off the stove and gently strain the sunchokes.  toss them in a medium bowl with the olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and fresh cracked pepper.  they will be too hot to toss with your hands and too fragile for using a mixing spoon so i spin them around in the bowl just to coat.  turn out onto a baking sheet and spread out evenly.

bake for 30 minutes, gently stirring every 10 minutes or so.  then turn the oven up to 400F, take the fries out and sprinkle with a thin coat of shredded parmesan cheese.  bake at the elevated temperature for 3-4 minutes or until some of the cheese is turning brown.

serve them fresh out of the oven, use a spatula to get them off the tray.  put the chimichurri sauce in a small dish on the side for dipping and enjoy!

yields 2-3 servings

and the farmers i work for grow a very special variety, their large oval-shaped yellow watermelons!  some of them get up to 20 lbs but i had no problem eating my way through most of one last week – sharing a few pieces with the baby i watch, who eagerly crunched the tiny cubes between her gums and slurped up the juice.

to find a great watermelon make sure you are looking in july/august, preferably from a farm that only sells seasonal produce, so you know they are picky about selling the good stuff.  the watermelon should have a light colored spot where it sat on the ground while growing (otherwise it was picked too soon) and it should have a little navel where the stem was twisted off (if it wasn’t broken off cleanly that is also a sign of early picking.)  now pat all the watermelons with your hand like you are banging on bongos.  the one that makes the lowest sound will be the juiciest and most ready to eat.  pick it up and it should feel very heavy for how it looks, another sign it is juicy.

you can usually keep a watermelon around on the counter for a few days before cutting into it, but once you do you should wrap it up and keep it in the fridge.  enjoy with friends!

i tried my hand at cooking okra two summers ago with great success when i made this super simple okra and miso marinara over soba noodles.  but i kept hearing that fried okra is one of the tastiest ways to prepare this veggie – which is often misunderstood as slimy and strange.  i started off with a light breading of mostly garbanzo bean flour and some aleppo pepper for taste, which is an amazingly flavorful but mild pepper i find similar to smoked paprika.  i get it from my local armenian market, but  you should be able to find it a grocery store with an extensive spice selection or sometimes in the “ethnic foods” section.

i’ve heard fried okra can be tricky to get right, but my first attempt turned out great!  simply dredging the chopped okra in the dry ingredients and frying it up in coconut oil yielded a really lovely snack that had that green veggie quality to it but still reminded me of eating french fries.  it would be great dipped in marinara sauce or something spicy.  enjoy!

fried okra with aleppo pepper
1/2 lb fresh okra
2 tbsp garbanzo bean flour
1 tbsp whole wheat flour
1 tsp aleppo pepper (an additional for sprinkling on top)
pinch garlic powder
salt to taste
coconut oil (about 1-2 cups depending on size of your pan)

mix all of your dry ingredients together.  you could probably use all garbanzo bean flour if you want a wheat-free option, but i haven’t tried it that way yet.  add just a touch of salt and garlic powder to the dry mix for a little extra flavor – i find that breadings without salt mixed in cause a bland flavor.

rinse the okra and chop the tops and pointy ends off all them.  then chop all into about 1/4th inch pieces.  toss these okra pieces in the dry ingredients until most of it sticks to the okra.

now to fry: i use coconut oil for a lot of cooking, but especially frying.  this is because coconut oil is one of the most stable oils at high temperatures – this means it does not break down and cause weird, unhealthy compounds like others oils do at high temperatures (for example olive oil.)  it can be a little pricey but definitely worth it.  i order a big tub online and it lasts months, keep the main container in the fridge and use it to refill a smaller one out of the fridge.  this is because it’s easier to work with when soft at room temperature but should be stored in the fridge if not being used for a while.

heat up at least an inch of oil in a pan.  i find it’s easier to fry in a pot with higher sides than a frying pan because it’s easier to keep the oil in and to scoop the okra out of.  let heat over high heat for a few minutes until the oil is totally liquid and slightly bubbling.  shake excess dry ingredients off the okra and drop about a third of it in the oil – you will probably want to drop them in with a utensil so your hands don’t get too close to the oil.  i have a wire mesh scoop made just for fetching food out of hot oil but it works great for putting it too.  i got it at the thai market down the street from me.

the first batch takes longer to fry because the oil is more pure and doesn’t get as hot.  it took my first batch about 1-2 minutes to turn golden brown – scoop out them out onto a plate covered with a paper towel and repeat with the second and third batches which should only take about 1 minute to cook.

when finished, sprinkle with little additional salt and aleppo pepper.  let cool for a minute and then enjoy right away!

yields 2-3 servings as a snack

we are at the very peak of stone fruit season.  apricots have been around for a while, peaches are just now getting good and cherries are the sweetest they can be right this very second!  for these few weeks of the year we can see nectarines, pluots, and apriums next to white, yellow and doughnut peaches, alongside baskets of red and rainier cherries.  so i gather them up while i can!

i often think of baking them into tarts, pies or cakes, but i must admit i feel guilty cooking such beautiful, fresh fruit.  i’m usually tempted just to eat it as is – raw and unaltered – to preserve its subtle sweetness and soft juicy texture.  but i wanted to find a recipe that accented these qualities while making the fruit more portable and even more palatable.

since the ripening of stone fruit makes me think of summer, and they have a similar texture to tomatoes, i decided to turn the fruit into a salsa i could enjoy all summer long as harvests yield different varieties.  instead of fresh cilantro i used big fresh basil leaves, which are so sweet smelling i melt whenever in the vicinity.  these compliment the sweetness of the fruit quite nicely, and the presence of all the other classic ingredients – garlic, onion, and a little salt, oil and citrus juice – leaves no question that this is still a true salsa.

mixed stone fruit salsa
3 c chopped mixed stone fruit
1/2 c chopped red onion
2 cloves minced garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lemon or lime juice
1 tbsp minced basil leaves
1 tsp kosher salt

you can pick whichever stone fruits you like, cherries, plums, pluots, peaches, apricots or apriums.  i just grabbed an assortment at the farmer’s market.

chop up all of the assorted stone fruit, removing any stems or pits, dicing everything up into small cubes.  mince the jalapeno (removing the stem, seeds an pulp first), onion, garlic and basil.  mix this all together with your lemon juice, olive oil and salt.  enjoy immediately or let sit in the fridge for about an hour to let the flavors meld together.

yields about 4 servings

sometimes inspiration will carry me to the kitchen to bake something, but when i open the cupboards the ingredients are dismal.  i wanted to make granola bars but as i eyed the most discouraging amount of oats i had ever encountered, i thought it might not happen.  just then i spied small amounts of different seeds and nuts all over the cupboard, so instead of sulking away empty-handed, i got a little creative.

i toasted them all up in a dry frying pan, tossed them with some kosher salt, vanilla and agave, then baked them into bars.  and, of course, finished them off with a drizzle of semi-sweet chocolate.  the result is a toasty, crackly, just-sweet-enough bar that flakes and pops as you chew it.  the hint of salt compliments the treat’s sweetness and toasty crunch really well.  it reminded me slightly of the taste of fresh popped popcorn, but tucked into a hardy and healthy snack.

sweet and salty seedy nut bars
2 c variety of whichever seeds, nuts, light grains or dried fruits you have on hand
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 c agave syrup
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 c semi-sweet chocolate chips

this recipe is really simple and versatile.  you can use pretty much any nuts or seeds you have on hand, light grains like oats, buckwheat or quinoa, and most dried fruit.  i used a mix of flax seeds, sunflower seeds, almonds, pecans, dried shredded coconut, quinoa, oats and buckwheat.

pan fry all the ingredients in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes tossing every minute or so.   you should hear snap, crackle, popping.  if you have fruit or chocolate chips or something you want to add to the bars that shouldn’t be toasted, then add it in after this step.

once done, pour the toasted ingredients into a large bowl and drizzle the vanilla extract and agave over it – it may sizzle a bit.  mix well and turn out onto a pan covered in parchment paper.  form into a rectangle shape, as thick as you’d like your bars long.

bake at 325F for 10 minutes, take out and let cool for a few minutes.  then cut with a large sharp knife into bars – or little squares if you’d like – and return them to the oven for 10 additional minutes.  take out and let cool for a while before you attempt to handle them.  the agave leaves them malleable while still hot but they eventually harden into a very crunchy bar when completely cooled.

once they are cooled you can drizzle them with chocolate – which is what i prefer.  depending on your taste, you might like it without any chocolate or completely dipped in it.  personally, i think this minimal but even coat is perfect to contrast the saltiness within the bar.

to melt the chocolate, heat it up in a double boiler over low heat on the stove.  i do this by putting the chocolate in a large ceramic bowl over a small pot which is filled with about 1/2 inch of water, so that the bowl isn’t submerged in it.  this way when the water boils under the bowl, only steam will heat it up, not direct boiling water.  this will keep the temperature high enough to melt the chocolate but low enough to assure it won’t burn.

with the bars laid out on parchment paper (you can use the same piece you baked them on), coat a spoon with the melted chocolate and quickly shake from side to side over the bars to drizzle them thoroughly.  repeat until they are coated to your liking.

again, let cool thoroughly – at least an hour – before you attempt to handle.  the chocolate can stay soft for a long time.

enjoy for a snack, on a hike, with friends, in copious amounts!

yields 6 bars

sunchokes – also known as jerusalem artichokes – are the root vegetable of a plant similar to a sunflower.  they look like and are often confused for fresh ginger root, but are more like a potato.  they are probably associated with artichokes because of their earthy, subtle artichoke-like flavor and creamy, buttery texture.

i love to roast them in the oven slowly over moderate heat until they are melt in your mouth delicious.  almost like juicy little baked potato bites with sweet and savory undertones.  especially when they are tossed with the aromas of lightly flowery lavender and pungent garlic.

sunchokes roasted with lavender and garlic
about 1 lb sunchokes
1 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves minced garlic
1/2 tsp lavender
1/2 tsp sea salt

when roasting, i like to get mostly little sunchokes so they cook faster and all take about the same amount of time.  as you can see they can grow quite large, but when they are that size i prefer to chop them up and use them in a stir fry.

on choosing which spices to use, you can use anything you’d like, even just the classic combination of salt and pepper works well.  i love the pairing of lavender and garlic, especially with the earthy flavors of the sunchokes, but make sure to ground the lavender well to make sure it’s flavor can spread out.   with a mortar and pestle i grind the lavender and sea salt together.

wash the sunchokes well, peeling off any partiuclarly dirty bits.  some people peel them entirely, but i prefer the crispiness the skin has when roasted.  then toss with the olive oil, lavender, salt and garlic until they are evenly coated.

lay on a baking sheet covered in parchment paper and bake for about 1 hour at 350F, turning every 20 minutes.  they should get very soft and tender.

let cool and enjoy every last bite.

yields 2-3 servings

my latest vice is oriental snack mixes.  i could eat a whole bag in one sitting, what with the crispy rice crackers, wasabi peas and – my favorite – the toasty tasting sesame sticks.  i love the stuff so much i decided to try my hand at making them myself.

and it’s easier then i thought.  a simple combination of flour, spices, sesame seeds, oil and water, toasted for a few minutes in the oven and enjoyed in copious amounts.  great as a quick snack on the go, added to a trail mix, or crumbled over a salad.

toasted sesame sticks
1/3 c sesame seeds
1 c whole wheat flour
1 c unbleached flour
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp paprika
5 tbsp sesame or olive oil
1/2 c water

toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over high heat, shaking every few seconds until they are toasty brown and making crackling noises.

sift together both flours, salt and spices, then add the toasted sesame seed.  mix in the sesame oil until well incorporated – it should be a crumbly, powdery consistency that isn’t yet wet.  lastly, mix in the water and knead until even.

turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out until it’s as thin as you can get it.

cut the dough evenly into thin strips, the easiest way to do this is with a pizza cutter.

lay out on a baking sheet, covered in parchment paper if you have it, and bake at 325F for 12-15 minutes.

yields about 4-6 servings

like the daikon radish or momotaro tomatoes, shishito peppers are special japanese treats that – lucky for us – are easily grown in california.  and lucky for me, the local japanese family farm i work for carries them.

most of these miniature peppers are very mild, almost like a bell pepper with just the tiniest bite of spice that is not at all hot.  one in every 20 or so might be spicier, but cooking helps reduce the heat of the pepper.

and there are so many ways you can enjoy shishitos!  eaten raw with hummus, chopped up for a very mild salsa, tempera or over the grill are all great, but i love the simplicity of this recipe.  the whole peppers are lightly blistered in some sesame oil, then sprinkled with salt and sesame seeds.  the perfect appetizer or snack, best enjoyed with a cold beer.

sesame-fried shishito peppers
2 cups of shishito peppers
2 tbsp sesame oil
sesame seeds
sea salt

wash the peppers, but leave them in tact.  the stems give you something to hold when you bite them.

heat the oil up in a large pan over high heat for a few minutes.  toss one pepper in to see if the oil is hot enough.  when the pepper sizzles and pops you know the oil is hot enough.

throw the rest of the peppers in, reduce the heat to medium-high and try to stand back a bit.  the peppers are filled with air and will pop when they heat up, which might splatter hot oil on anything that’s near.  it would also be a good idea to throw on an apron to keep the oil from getting on your clothes.

flip every 30 seconds with a spoon, spatula or tongs.  after about 4-6 minutes the peppers should become lightly tanned in spots.  cut the heat and scoop them off individually onto a paper towel-covered plate.  let the oil cool before disposing of it.

while still hot, sprinkle the peppers with sesame seeds and sea salt to your taste.  enjoy immediately.

yields 2 cups